Leopard geckos are insectivores: feed a variety of crickets, waxworms, mealworms (in moderation only) and even an occasional pinkie mice for adults. Night Temperature: can drop as low as mid 70s F (around 25 C) Feeding Undertank heaters can also be used.ĭaytime Temperature: basking spot of 90 F (32 C) with a gradient to low 80s F (around 27 C) A regular incandescent bulb could be used to provide a basking spot, but leopard geckos probably prefer dimmer conditions so consider using a red bulb or ceramic heating element to provide the temperature gradient. Light and Heatīeing nocturnal, leopard geckos require no special UV lighting. Whatever is used, make sure it is not being ingested along with the gecko's meals. Paper is absorbent and easy to change, and indoor outdoor carpet works well too. Young geckos shouldn't be kept on sand, as they may ingest it and get a blockage. A damp hide box can help with shedding (a plastic container with a hole in the lid, with moist soil or moss inside). Half logs provide hiding and climbing space, as can commercial reptile caves and simple cardboard boxes. HousingĪ 15-20 gallon tank is large enough for 2-3 geckos, but there should only be one male per tank (and only keep males and females together if prepared to deal with offspring!). They do have eyelids, also unlike other geckos. They do not have the toe pads like other geckos so do not climb very well. Leopard gekos are nocturnal, ground dwelling, and generally docile and easy to tame. Their common coloring is yellow and white with black spots (hatchlings start out striped, and gradually change to the spotted appearance). They may live 20 or more years and grow to be approximately 8-10 inches long. The scientific name for leopard gekos is Eublepharis Macularius.
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